Day 1
JOSH GOOT
For Aussie-turned-New Yorker Josh Goot’s Azzedine-referenced spring collection, Phillipe Chansel made the makeup disappear. The models’ faces looked absolutely nude — “but that’s because the makeup is really well blended,” he explained. Using MAC’s Micronized Airbrush Foundation without the actual airbrush achieved the look - while MAC Lip Erase took down the lip colour. The cheeks had the most subtle hint of contour and highlight - but the real action was at the nape of the neck. There, Chansel dabbed silver, white, pink, or gold powder patches behind the girls’ high sleek ponytails. “To catch the spotlight as they walk,” was the reason - a new novel placement for makeup? Necks could be the new eyes.
GREY ANT
Makeup artist Tiffany Johnston had an epiphany at Grey Ant’s Spring ‘08 show; plastic skin. “It has a little reflection,” she described. “So it’s not dewy - and it’s not matte, either.” Using a tiny amount of neutral lip gel and cheek highlight, she then obliterated her near-natural look with doll eyes straight out of a Keene painting; one set of models had blacked out eyes; the other electric blue. “I cut off the false lashes at the end and packed mascara on, creating a feeling of paper mache,” she described. All in all, the spring look at Grey Ant was about texture - a mix of real and fake - and virtually no colour.
BAND OF OUTSIDERS
Band of Outsiders appropriately nautical spring show aboard a ship at Chelsea Piers inspired makeup artist Romy Soleimani to break out the navy eyeliner. Ships ahoy! Indigo is always a sure sign of spring. The actual base makeup was carefully applied and this season’s first trend we’ve spotted; pale pale contouring of cheeks, for that ravenously hollow but still healthy look, worked well with naval chic.
Day 2:
Y & KEI
Most seasons, clothing trends work with the makeup trends, each coordinating and flattering the other. Not so Spring ‘08; Y & Kei did their modern hippie dresses, but makeup artist Polly Osmond worked against it. Her faces here were shiny on the cheek and brow bones, with taupe shiny gloss on eyes, and no mascara or discernible brow enhancement. The lips had a slightly bitten look courtesy of MAC’s Cafe Matte Lipstick. “We’ve seen so much brow, lash and lip for fall,” Osmond declared, “now it’s time for a return to iridescence. And beiges and browns are classics, not trendy.” Long live no-makeup makeup!
JASON WU
The nudie movement definitely hit Jason Wu’s spring face - but only the top half. Romy Soleimani did no brows, an iridescent cheek, with just a little grey around the eyes and a little bit of mascara. But it was all about a Big Mouth - a very big mouth. The lips were absolutely matte in the shade of electric pumpkin. Call it The Great Pumpkin effect. If an orange creamsicle froze on your lips, it would look like this.
NICOLE MILLER
James Kiliardos was having a Twiggy moment for Nicole Miller’s spring show. “I’m feeling Twiggy 1972,” he said, applying mascara on the top and bottom of a model’s eyes - with no liner. While the clothes were chic and contemporary with rushes of goldenrod, the makeup stayed in the pinkberry family, with pale blush high on the cheekbone and a berry stain on the lip. “it’s all about putting a concentration of mascara at the root of the top and bottom of the eye,” he explained, “then you comb it out to the ends.” Welcome back, Twiggy.
L.A.M.B.
Charlotte Tilbury and Gwen Stefani have this in common; a love of ladies from the fifties and sixties. “We both love that smoky vampy eye,” said Osmond, who did Stefani’s makeup for her runway walk, too. So for L.A.M.B. spring, Osmond did what she called a “3-D smoky grey eye” that put charcoal powder at the crease and above the lashes. The face was finished with a very sheer beige lip - and long white shiny fingernails.
Day 3:
BADGELEY MISCHKA
Tom Pecheux’s vision of the Badgley Mischka girl in spring/summer is, “she likes her time on the beach, and isn’t too bothered when it comes to dressing for evening.” She would toss on a Badgley cocktail dress, maybe swipe her upper lashes with mascara, have a rosy cheek already from the sun - and then pop on a stunning electric fuchsia gloss on her lips - enough to light up a whole room. “We made it for the show,” Pecheux said. Let’s hope MAC will package it this spring so we can all get that strong mouth that looks so great with almost no other makeup.
PREEN
James Kaliardos was channeling the safari seventies of Lauren Hutton for the groovy English label Preen. The clothes were going a bit safari too. He used MAC Paint Pots for the eyes - a cream that dries to a powder, in gold and taupe tones. Again, he only wanted mascara on the top lashes, which is seventies-style. For the lips, he tried MAC’s hot new spring colour 4N - a petal-sprigged pinky beige that’s sure to be the new Spice. And sure enough, we spied some glossy highlighter above the cheekbone. Let’s just say it was That Seventies Show.
BILL BLASS
Some things in the world change and others stay pleasantly the same. The Bill Blass woman will always be a sleek grownup who wears tailored clothes, a well-traveled glow, and travels first class. For spring, Francello Daily added a bit of berry stain to her pout and a little shine on the cheek - and this “undone” look included the requisite brow and lipliner grooming that other designers eschewed for spring.
CARLOS MIELE
Carlos Miele does red hot glamour - slithery gowns and dresses that ooze ooh-la-la when everybody else was doing big volume. So Romy Soleimani added a little brown red gloss to her berry lips, and the blush was a little warmer than the simple contour of other shows. Maybe there was a tiny less mascara than in seasons past in ode to the lighter makeup looks of this season - but not much.
Text and Image Source: MAC Backstage/pimsmultimedia.com
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